With energy savings and rebates, insulation can pay for itself within 4
years. Utility rebates can exceed $500.
Step 1: We seal the attic and control moisture.
Sealing Recessed Light Fixtures
Unsealed can lights let heat in during the summer, and let heat out during the winter. In figure (?), the lights are off; the colored streaks indicate points of substantial energy loss created by air leakage into and out of the attic.
Attic Hatch & Scuttle Hole Cover
Air leaks around attic entrance hatches can be a major contributor to energy waste. We take the time to thoroughly seal and insulate them.
Openings made for wiring create a maze of paths for air to travel from the attic, down into the walls, and then into living space via electrical outlets, and out from under baseboards.
Unsealed plumbing penetrations create substantial air exchange between the living space and the attic, wasting energy and reducing the effectiveness of insulation.
Hot Water Heater Vent
Hot water heater vent pipes are commonly unsealed and typically allow significant airflow between the attic and the living area.
Sealing the Chimney Chase
Among the largest attic-to-living-area leaks is the space surrounding both brick, concrete, and steel chimney pipes, which are often large and left entirely open.
Properly Installed Flapper Vents
We ensure that exhaust fans send moisture outside without spilling into the attic, where it would otherwise negatively impact insulation performance.
Step 2: We insulate with cellulose.
Cellulose protects Michigan’s environment.
We use Michigan-made cellulose that’s made of 85% recycled paper—newsprint and paper products collected at fundraisers for community organizations. It’s also manufactured in a more environmentally-friendly way than competing products, with less energy use and 80% lower greenhouse emissions.
Cellulose is the safer, healthier choice.
Unlike fiberglass, cellulose insulation poses no threat to your lungs with dangerous respirable glass particles. It’s non-toxic and formaldehyde-free. It also means better protection against fire, with 55% better fire resistance than fiberglass.
Cellulose provides better coverage than fiberglass.
When you insulate your attic with cellulose rather than fiberglass, a greater portion of the attic area is fully insulated because cellulose is effective in smaller amounts.
Step 3: We seal and insulate the rim joists.
Keep spiders, mice, and other pests outside.
On top of letting cold air in during the winter months, and letting hot air in during the summer, unsealed rim joists are the easiest point of entry for spiders, insects, and even small rodents. A full seal can dramatically reduce their presence in the home.
Prevent mold growth and reduce allergy problems.
The air enterring around the base of the home, just above the foundation, is often damp and this can result in increased mold growth in the basement. Because basement air is drawn up into the living area, this can contribute to health problems. Seal out the moisture, and the basement can remain dry and free of mold.
Seal multiple points of entry.
A variety of openings, in addition to the gaps between abutting rim joists, make the area prone to major air leaks. Plumbing penetrations (for example, a pipe for an outdoor garden hose faucet), and electrical wiring (for an outdoor meter) are common examples.
Fiberglass won’t do.
It’s easy to see why fiberglass batts are not a good solution. Moist air and condensation on pipes and on the rim joists render it ineffective, and it doesn’t block air flow into the basement. Only foam products create a vapor barrier while also providing good thermal performance, impervious to moist air and condensation.
Help protect Michigan’s environment.
Insulating your home reduces the burden that your heating and cooling
needs place on the environment through lower greenhouse
and sulfur emissions. And we’ll insulate using